3 finger drag vs half crimp. I'm training on a 19 mm edge.

3 finger drag vs half crimp. Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). But my crimps regardless of half/open were missing the pinky either way. 2. To make sure each finger is trained equally on each grip, I've omitted 4-finger all together except on slopers or jugs. The three-finger drag grip, involving only the front three fingers (digits II–IV), reduces the impact of variations in the fifth digit’s length, which can Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. Your shoulder has to work a lot harder to keep yourself engaged to your foothold. It does transfer to decently well but I think it depends on your finger lengths relative to one another too. g. On the other hand, climbing with full crimp necessitates the use of your thumb as an extra source of force while climbing. (Ring and middle finger more aggressive than 90 degree) How do you define 4 finger open hand and half crimp? For me the two grips I have described above feel vastly different and as described I was way stronger in one compared to the other at one point. I'm relatively unexperienced climber, but I've been taking advantage of the lockdown to try and get to grips with hangboarding - having no problems with 12s hangs on edges between 13mm and 20mm with half crimp grip, but I am having problems even starting with open hand or 3 finger drag. Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. That means: Jun 25, 2025 · Accurate assessment of isometric finger flexor strength in climbers must consider that climbing involves various grip types (such as open hand, drag, and half-crimp), which can significantly impact climbing performance [11, 14, 15, 16]. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. 2 fingers - for non-wads probably just open hand. I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. Half crimp will only be in half of the workouts every four days. Sep 11, 2023 · Front-Three Half Crimp Ähnlich wie der Drag, nur dass die Finger hier in halber Spannung sind. So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. Aug 9, 2025 · Understanding the Three-Finger Drag Grip The three-finger drag, often simply called a "drag" or "open-hand drag," is a foundational grip in climbing, particularly effective on slopier holds, rounded features, or when transitioning between moves. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. When to Use Each Crimp: Holy shit that last clip of him hanging 3-finger drag on one arm then statically flexing into a 3-finger half-crimp is absolutely nuts Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. In addition, if you are certain the only way to hold something is with a super powerful full crimp, consider making adjustments to your feet and body position to make climbing holds feel better instead of always resulting to full crimping. I can do 7 seconds of bodyweight on 7mm. As the hold gets larger, the discrepancy becomes less apparent. Weirdly I find I can use all 4 fingers in half crimp when doing my one arm hangs, I think the angle your body is at works better. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. Don't overly focus on open grip positions, especially 3 finger drag. Sep 27, 2024 · The half crimp grip has the most applications in climbing. Currently I can one arm half crimp with about 15kg taken off at 82kg BW and one arm 4 finger with about 7kg taken off Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. I'll echo Alkis that tendon overuse injuries do wonders for encouraging your drag usage. These types of holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. I've been doing max hangs on the small (12ish mm?) edge and can do BW + 40 lbs 4-finger open but struggle to do BW + 20 lbs on the half-crimp. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. Mar 16, 2005 · I'm balanced between half crimp and full drag (3 fingers for me, due to short pinky), but cannot match that with full crimp: my index and middle do not extend much and the full crimp is the most painful prehension for me. 4. The latter makes more sense to m. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you'll be Where your pinky is on and half your fingers are in a half-crimp) was what people meant by an "open-handed grip" and that the 3 finger drag was a dangerous grip type that you only really used on slopers or that you fell into when your hand was failing (still not sure if the 3f drag is actually more dangerous than a half crimp?) Jul 31, 2023 · 3. To perform a half crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinkie is straight (simply because it is shorter). hang 4mm full crimp but I can hang 6 mm half crimp for 3 seconds or so and I like pinches etc. Maximum Weight 10-Second Protocol Dec 9, 2019 · When I fingerboard I end up half crimping with the front 3 and the pinky in drag, if I try all 4 fingers in half crimp my wrist is at a weird angle. Back-Three Half I'm the same way. This closes the hand shape, enabling the climber to generate more force when crimping. I'm thinking 3 fingers - good to work both positions, especially for front 3. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. I call it "semi open-hand" because my middle and pointer finger go into a slight half crimp when I put my pinky finger on. Nov 18, 2007 · It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. When I use 4 fingers it's open (PIP below DIP) on index and pinky, half crimp (PIP level with DIP) on middle and ring. Is that a problem? I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. I had to take a deep breath and Oct 28, 2020 · Open hand/drag, Half crimp or full crimp? Mine is now a open 3 finger drag (open) because half crimping really irritated my finger injury during rehab and I adapted to open hand on the wall. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing. I'm much better able to use front 3 half crimp and slots or other holds where there isn't enough space to get the high angle needed for full crimp. My open hand. Does anyone has any expirience with it and what you did to treat it? The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Is this normal? Am I best training half crimped, open, or both? I feel like This is why edges between 18 and 22mm are considered good all-round options for training the half-crimp, 3-finger drag and two finger teams. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. And now I can feel it while moving my hand. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You can see this as some sort of backoff or technique work if you shall. Full crimp As to whether or not you should train your three finger drag, I have this short anecdote. This is a popular grip for campusing, finger-tip pull-ups, endurance training and warming up, simply because People often assume that a full crimp is when you place your thumb over your index finger, when that is the closed hand crimp. UPDATE 4/14: based on unanimous feedback to chill and not be too ambitious so I don't reaggravate my injury, Ive decided to do training sessions every other day. Don't think it's a problem at all, just different tools in the box. That means: More force Longer time to apply force I don't have anything revelatory to say except that I'm the same — drag/open are much stronger for me than half crimp, which is slightly stronger than full crimp. Keep detailed notes of the holds used and the number of hangs and sets performed. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. I can hang 60lbs with half crimp and 80lbs with three finger open, which is very close to my 4 finger open. The key to performing repeaters properly is being precise with the timing. We also discuss the types of full-crimp. RPE: 5-7/10. Just depends on what your climbing, one may suit better The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. The thumb should rest around two to five centimetres beneath your pointer finger, off-set, one to three centimetres from the pointer, depending on hand size. The front 3 drag, half crimp, and sloper tests were conducted on a Beastmaker 1000 Series hangboard (tulipwood, Beastmaker Limited) lower lateral 20-mm edge with approximately 10 mm radius and the Sep 19, 2022 · 0:59:23 – Three finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. Nov 9, 2021 · Half crimp seemed the totally natural way to grab small edges, I had to practice 3 finger drag to give my fingers a break on longer fingery routes/problems. I read it could be a lumbrical injury. I've just come to accept that open hand crimps are just 3 finger drags for me. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! Feb 11, 2021 · The Training Program: Half Crimp on 14-millimetre edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off Engage about 80% of the weight it would take to lift off the ground Three-finger drag on large edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off Engage about 80% of the weight required to pull off of the ground Middle-and-ring finger open-pocket position: 327 likes, 11 comments - neil. My half crimp is great. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. 3. Surely half crimp is the least mechanically efficient position with the longest lever arm? Oct 31, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I’ve trained half crimp and open hand crimp on a hangboard for quite some time, but I’m wondering if I need to slowly introduce 3 finger drag hangs into my regimen. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Sep 21, 2023 · Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Currently hangboarding for the 2nd time ever (2nd cycle) and lord do I love 3 finger drag +75 pounds for 10 seconds on a 1 pad 3 finger open can only do 55 for 7 seconds with a larger half crimp hold. As related to being a climber of one particular style: you get better at what you train in. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. 'Back three' is another possibility (no index, pinky on. 5 seconds on: 5 seconds off. Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. Diese Technik bietet sich etwa an, wenn du nach einem langen Zug nachfasst. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in I have been working on growing my open-hand finger strength but I have mostly been using a 4 finger semi-open hand grip. Feb 2, 2025 · According to seasoned climbers, the half crimp has a lesser risk of hurting your finger joints and tendons than the full crimp grip. You should note what you're doing with your scapular when you pull up into crimp positions. My 3 finger drag increased extremely rapidly after I started training it and quickly surpassed my half-crimp even though I had never really used it before. Would this be the best idea, or is there a more effective solution to strengthen the lumbricals? Aug 27, 2023 · This grip type allows for a greater degree of endurance and overall finger strength. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. Another reason to train the three-finger drag is that strength in this grip is a prerequisite for impressive sloper strength. Advanced climbers can do one or two additional sets that target three-finger drag and the various one- and two-finger pocket grips. And I can't put any weight on a 3 finger drag due to the sharp pain. Three Finger Drag: After the half crimp, transition to the three-finger drag. I can hang 160% bodyweight for 7s on a 20mm edge in 4 finger half crimp but struggled with 110% bodyweight in front 3 finger half crimp to begin with. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. You need to specify a grip type to really figure out what is going on: grip strength between different grips (open crimp, half crimp, full crimp, 3 finger drag etc) can vary drastically. gresham on February 23, 2024: "MORE GRIP TIPS - 3. I've always been told it's safer to climb with an open hand. Jan 31, 2022 · Only ever training in a half crimp or openhanded position and then expecting to be able to crimp to your maximum on a project seems like madness to me. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. Often called "front three half crimp". It's just about finding what works best for you specifically. No argument here. (Photo: Beastmaking Collection) GETTING TO GRIPS WITH YOUR FULL CRIMP A lot of climbers feel like they lack full crimp strength, or feel that crimping is Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. I can do a one arm hang on 18mm for 8 seconds. There are quite a few benefits from having periods of training 3 finger drag (either climbing like that or FB sessions like that. So what’s that 10mm micro edge for? One claimed advantage of training on small holds is that it improves intramuscular coordination on skinny holds. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort. Half crimping for me seems to get my half crimp better, but oddly I have not seen it transfer to full crimp. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can do 5 pull ups on 3 finger drag. My half crimp is strong. To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. 3 finger drag feels more secure, and like I can pull a lot harder than open on most edges. My three finger drag is stronger than my half crimp (but not my 4 finger open crimp) by a long shot. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Like so… If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. As a beginner I can suggest very easy practice of several grip positions (full, half crimp, 3 finger drag, etc) to improve how you grip holds on the wall. 3-5 reps at 5-7/10 RPE. I think the causes are first- and fourth-finger strength for the open/half and half/crimp gaps, respectively. Advanced climbers can also try increasing resistance to 80%. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), Given a choice, I will pretty much always choose half or closed crimp. I'm training on a 19 mm edge. The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Again, this will be done for six sets with the same time intervals - 10 seconds of hanging followed by 20 seconds of rest. Like the half crimp, the three-finger drag can be trained in a variety of ways: edge lifting, hangboarding, board training and bouldering. Jan 4, 2024 · Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. 3 finger drag is more efficient and you get more reach; half crimp is more mechanically strong; etc. The correlations with route grades were similar. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. The chisel is effectively, a half-crimp where the index is kept straight. OPEN CRIMP & CHISEL: The ‘chisel’ and open-crimp grips represent the middle ground between a half-crimp and an open/drag grip. e Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). Should a hangboard protocol focus all three equally and alternate styles between sets, or pick a favorite or strongest and focus that, while still trying to hit the others occasionally? I've notice that while my half crimp is weak, I can still maintain it. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. 4 finger "open hand" (for people where the pinky finger is significantly shorter) arent actually very open handed as in order to get the pinky on the first 3 must be bent (for me it's basically 1/2 crimp). Goblet squat at body weight, squating to a comfortable depth. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Although I am still trying to do easier slopers with open hand to improve. I'm sure I learned this from a ukclimbing article by Niel Gresham way back when, you could probably find it still with a bit of searching. I've managed to hang +10kg for 7 seconds. Full crimp joint angles are extremely aggravating, as in they don't hurt but they make my finger joints swell like crazy for a fewdays (vs less swelling for less time with half crimp) Open Hand/Open Crimp - three or four fingertips drag (depending on hand morphology) Quarter Crimp - thumb locked on top of the index finger above the first knuckle with an open hand Half Crimp - fingers at 90° angle Full Crimp - knuckles above the plane of the edge Closed Crimp - thumb locked on top of the index finger near the fingertip I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. If possible, the thumb rests next to the index finger or onto the hold. I have recently started training front 3 and back 3 finger crimp to train for V10. Pocket/Drag: Lower overall gains, with gains restricted to the specific grip, a little transfer to open-crimp, and no transfer to the half-crimp or full-crimp. We see a lot of beginners use too much drag position when first fingerboarding as it feels the strongest and they can often hang the heaviest weights. Full-Crimp: Dec 24, 2012 · For those that campus - do you drag it, half crimp it or both? My drag is much stronger than my half crimp so I'd prefer to drag but i wonder if I'd be missing out. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. This is definitely true. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. Half Crimp 📌 Fingers at a 90° angle, no thumb Strong & stable 💡 Great for controlled May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. May 1, 2024 · While many have become injured while full-crimping, overuse and not listening to their body are likely the causes. Very interesting! I always thought three-finger drags were pretty much an open crimp without a pinky. *Must be pain free during and after exercise. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. Jul 10, 2025 · The 4 grip types every climber should know! 👀 Your grip strength decides whether you stick the move or fall off. Here’s a quick overview of the 4 most important finger positions: 1. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. When using a crimp grip, the climber’s fingers are bent at the first joint, creating a hook-like shape. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If it’s not pain free, then lighten the load. Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and chosen by personal preference. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 drag (open) 4 finger half crimp (closed) What actually happens when we train our grip? Neurological adaptations: Typically, these are quick changes that happen specific to a new protocol and include increasing the magnitude, rate of firing and synchronisation of motor units. I only realised recently that my proper half crimp is a bit lacking. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. Nov 10, 2024 · You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. I have actually injured both lumbricals because I didn't train 3 finger hangs (only 4 finger half crimp). I can climb a bit more volume without my finger joints getting stressed since I'm not relying on using full crimp for every hard move. This is stronger for me but on certain holds I need a half crimp to be able to exert force in the correct direction to best use the hold. This is the most common crimp position as it allows you to push down and keep your fingers in a locked position. I cant e g. I recently tested my finger strength on micro edge and was surprised to be able to hold the lattice 6mm edge in full crimp for 3-5 sec. On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger drag. Sep 13, 2022 · 30 seconds on 30 seconds off, 3 reps each hold. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. Have climbed 5. After a A week later while climbing I used the 3 finger drag in a crimp and felt the sharp pain again which made me stop the session. If you are not training for something specific though half crimp max hang is best for increasing general finger strength in climbing and I would definitely focus most of my time on that. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. My middle finger is longer too so depending on the hold, my middle finger could be almost half crimping it and my ring and index finger are open crimping it. Most climber will prioritise the half-crimp and 3-finger drag, and then train the sloper open-hand, first two-finger team, and second two-finger team. . I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Some holds to try are 3 finger drag, pinch, 2 finger pocket, half crimp, full crimp. Hello, One year ago , I could not full-crimp at all and used half-crimp for everything. As Mar 10, 2023 · 4-finger half-crimp (40-35mm) repeater. This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. I think I'm keeping my form pretty solid because I can't really go into open hand without my pinky basically coming off, which it doesn't. I don't think wrist strength is really a factor for me, personally. Jan 19, 2021 · We describe seven of the most commonly used grip positions and the differences between them. ouch. Open with all 4 feels weird, but I often fall into it when climbing at my limit on incut crimps. ) Some people train these combo's in half crimp on a FB. Full Crimp 📌 Fingers fully bent, max tension Power boost ⚠️ Use with caution – high injury risk! 2. Half Crimp Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. Personally, when I train my open-handed grip, I always use a 3-finger drag. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. What is a crimp grip? In contrast, a crimp grip involves gripping a climbing hold with a more closed hand position. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. Same finger lengths as you have, I think it's impossible to use true 4 finger open hand. I'm trying to address my open hand weakness, so it will be interesting to see if having more strength in that position means I'll use it 3 finger drag is the only way most people can actually “open hand” (all PIP joints >90°), it just has to do with the length of your fourth finger. Half Crimp A half crimp climbing grip is when your fingers are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads on top of the hold but your thumb is to the side of the grip and isn’t being used. Jul 26, 2021 · Work on the open hand or 3 finger drag position while hangboarding! If you’re already hangboarding, this is a great opportunity to strengthen the FDP and make it more resilient to injury in the future. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. Oft This also allows you to push down on the hold with your finger pads and keep your fingers in a stable position of lesser damage. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at . I also immediately started using in my climbing after strengthening it, without even consciously trying to do so. 5 reps in each direction per set. Unlike a full crimp where the DIP (distal interphalangeal) joint is significantly hyperextended and the thumb often wraps over the index finger, the Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. The author, Ned Feehally, full crimps on his home wall. Compared to the full crimp, half crimp seldom causes serious tendon injuries and strain. So more powerful than 3 finger drag but slightly less efficient. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. Reply reply [deleted] • 3 finger drag is no crimp, you can also 3 finger crimp Reply reply DBNOTK • Initially focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grip—one set of each. I tend to fall into the 4 finger "drag" rather than a full half crimp. Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). Some grip types are more “active” than others. Crimping ain’t easy. The half crimp is My question is mainly around grip style; half crimp vs open hand vs 3 finger drag. For example half crimp is worse than three finger drag. Taking a hold with 4 fingers but “opening” the first finger so the PIP is >90° is what I call “open crimp”. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. Jan 5, 2025 · Half crimp: more muscle contraction, more tiring, but can vary angle of hand to hold without changing angle of tips on the hold by bending fingers. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. May 10, 2022 · The drag is a more passive grip than the half-crimp, relying more on friction and tension in the main tendons and less on the supportive pulleys. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Durch Einsatz des kleinen Fingers kann dieser Griff modifiziert werden, was dir mehr Halt und mehr Spannung in der Hand bringt. So I was wondering: - Are my fingers just not strong enough for this exercise? (To give you an idea I can do 5 sets of 4 reps for 7/3 repeaters or can hang 10secs using 3 finger drag, 20 secs half crimp) - Are finger pull-ups maybe not an interesting exercise for transferring these gains to climbing? I always half crimped everything, not even full crimp (I think I've full crimped like 3 times in my life). I can do 150% bodyweight on 18mm for 10 seconds. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Front Two Finger Drag: Move on to the front two finger drag, using the index finger and the middle finger. Circuit 3 Two sets with 3 minutes of rest between Dumbbell front, scapular, and lateral raises (The classic: I, Y, T). Anyone else experienced this? Dec 17, 2021 · If you are slipping from half-crimp into open-hand during your fingerboard routine, you likely require a larger edge, or longer rest between reps or sets. 12c/V7-. Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. I can't even 3 finger an 8mm edge but I can crimp the fuck out of it with +. Fortune favors prepared fingers. boulders 1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing 1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers Sorry if this has been covered extensivelyI'm just getting into hangboarding and have noticed that both my 3-finger and 4-finger open are much stronger than my four-finger half-crimp. In fact, I did a presentation on this topic and how it may relate to finger injuries years ago in my I thought it goes from open handed or drag (fingers almost straight) to half crimp (fingers at a 90° angle or something), to crimp (what you show) to full crimp (thumb on top of the index finger). About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC I half crimp with one pad, because my fingers just dont cooperate with me properly when trying to do openhand. Additional rest days will be added between work days if I feel my recovery isn't catching up with my load. I agree that you should be careful about fully curling the pinky, but also use the hangboard to improve the lumbrical tendons (hangboarding does improve tendon strength as long as you don't injure yourself) Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. Vor allem der Mittelfinger ist hierbei stärker an der Zugbewegung beteiligt. On the transgression board I can't even seem to position my fingers on an edge to get decent leverage open handed, this is Half crimp (for me) is, when the index finger is 90 degree. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. In my world, both of these are half-crimp, but in (1) the thumb is down, while in (2) the thumb sort of rests against my index finger and my hand is a little bit cupped. Using a bigger variety of grip positions (especially the 4 finger half crimp in with open 4) builds much stronger, more robust and higher performing finger strength in the Everyone here seems to be doing significantly harder hangs open handed, but my half crimp is much much stronger than my 3 finger drag. If anyone has watched our channels over the years or followed some of our education around finger strength training method, you'll have noticed that we vary our training between single and two I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? Depends on the size and shape of the hold. Compared to an open crimp/drag hold, this handhold position allows you to continue I believe chisel grip is akin to 4 finger open, so the index finger PIP joint has a much more obtuse angle than the 90° you're aiming for in half crimp, but the little finger still stays on the hold unlike your standard 3 finger drag. The catch is that on really hard moves it won’t provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp. I would train mostly half crimp but might also include open hand pockets, especially if training for a climb that has lots of pockets. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. Jan 11, 2024 · You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets. 5-10 reps per set. Pinch and drag will be in every workout as max hangs. You refer to injury Open-Crimp: Lower overall gains, with gains primarily to half-crimp and open-crimp, but a bit of transfer to full-crimp and pocket/drag. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Too much chance for injury doing half crimp In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. I find it crazy that simply removing my pinky would have such an effect. With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 hyperextended fingers are relatively equal -- this highlights the inherent weakness of the ring finger forcing you to work it. With the pinky on, my hand wants to settle into a half-crimp position, so I just keep it off. Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) When you move from drag into crimp and then into full crimp - you are moving about a cm or two up. Dec 24, 2012 · Just curious if folks hang 3 and 2 fingers half crimped, or if you guys switch over to open handed dragging for those. xbnm czsr kwecc ogc qojmas ris jmqz otfzx adj rgkg