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3 finger drag climbing reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.
3 finger drag climbing reddit. If I highlight a bunch of text using 3 finger and immediately press delete, nothing happens. My main weaknesses has always been slopers (I can barely hold the 35 BM slopers) finger (specifically edges smaller than 20mm) and pinch strength (the black slopy pinches on the MB are killers). This includes what I learned from months I have taken multiple extended rests from finger training and also slowly reintroduced the finger to the grip but the discomfort always comes back. The young uns are much more into open hand grips. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. 34y, 181 cm/5'11, 76 kg/167,6 Lbs. Doing so can generate a lot of stress on the adjacent fingers and result in lumbrical tears in the hand. Does anyone know what specifically this 15 votes, 24 comments. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. Tap and hold 3 fingers on the titlebar and you can drag it around. Here's my question: would i be putting myself at a significant disadvantage in finger strength development if i just stick to my ugly open hand crimping as main grip type and diversify training with 3-finger drag/duos, or should i just go with low weight and I am also trying to re-introduce the 3 finger drag to become more confident and develop tolerance. Once you are better, make sure you try and use the correct grip for the hold instead of over crimping everything. So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. Full crimping was a go to when my hands were to large for a hold, I also have high flexion fingers which not too many people I know have. He watched me climb a couple of routes and noticed that I mostly use a three-finger drag, not using my pinky finger. High Gravity day on the board, Happy I managed to hold the top crimp on this, even it it was 3 finger drag For me: 4 finger open =/= 4 finger drag (4finger drag beeing 3 finger drag + pinky in drag position) 4 finger open is for me having 4 fingers on with my Index finger beeing open (not 90 degree). Are you saying just 1 set 3 reps in half crimp e. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. With the pinky on, my hand wants to settle into a half-crimp position, so I just keep it off. The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. in general use the injured finger only with the two surrounding fingers also engaged, as this will take some load off the lumbrical muscle b) crimp everything. I injured (what I believe to be) my flexor tendon in my left ring finger by catching a ledge with a 3 finger drag (other hand off the wall), when my feet cut. 67K subscribers in the climbergirls community. 1. So on a 10mm edge, I'm getting ~1/3 of my finger pad on it with a half crimp. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. ? Do you do this on top of other climbing or is that is for the day? And good advice, it's just hard when psych is high but connective tissue is low : ( I think the priority goes something like this: Finger strength. The best way for me is to click and hold with one finger and use another to drag/move the cursor. A Google of "climbing lumbrical tears" will generate a 78 votes, 36 comments. I checked each of my fingers individually by just holding weights on a sling, and each finger on its own can do >10kg, EXCEPT my ring fingers which max out Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. Other people, including me, often use "open hand" to include open half crimp (or whatever it goes by nowadays) which is as open a hand position as you can get with all 4 Week 3-8: Progressively load your grips, don't push your max. There are two things going on here and I don't which it is but obviously the campus runs are smaller being from 20-30mm put they are also more rounded. I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. Very important for any open hand deadpoints to small holds or any pocket climbing. Because of the different lenght of my fingers my middle and ring fingers are about 90 Also in one of their videos they say that, based on their data, the half crimp and 3 finger drag are the two grip positions that translate best from hangboard training to all different positions. Reply reply Sinrra • It's a good option, in fact it's what I used to did, but I just found out about the 3 fingers, and it's really much better to use the 3 fingers, at least for me Reply reply More replies Master_Hospital5590 • Compounding on that, it's pretty likely that you favor your strong grip while actually climbing, so despite the recent 7 months of stimulus, your 3 finger drag could simply be much more advanced than any of your grips utilizing 4 fingers. I do train the pinkie in the open position as a 2 finger pocket with the ring finger (mostly for balanced hand fitness and not so much training for real-world climbing scenario) I'm relatively unexperienced climber, but I've been taking advantage of the lockdown to try and get to grips with hangboarding - having no problems with 12s hangs on edges between 13mm and 20mm with half crimp grip, but I am having problems even starting with open hand or 3 finger drag. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 5 mm. I realise that these numbers are specific to Tension block and who knows if they will transfer to I have very long and large hands for someone of my height and if I try to drag my middle finger is borderline half crimping. The total volume is low, because I do not do any climbing now. My progression in climbing has been followed by an increased preference for the more open handed grip types. Just climbed outdoors with some beginners today and the swelling, despite half crimping pretty hard, is much much less than I expected. The home of Climbing on reddit. Training the 3 finger drag will make your lumbricals in your hand more resilient. In reply to JimR: Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. A week ago I was dragging on a climb and felt a “stretching” feeling and injured some muscle to do with my ring finger. So far have been trying to do hangs both with the pinky curled fully towards the palm (more tweaky) and with the most proximal bone extended (less tweaky but really hard to pull hard w/o letting it fully curl). I have previously tested my 3 finger drag on a 20mm with the tindeq and noticed a large strength gap of 14kg between my hands. This position is the most efficient grip position in terms of the flexor muscles of the forearm. I hurt my lumbricals because my pinky slipped off a 4 finger hold and shock loaded my hand. Just climb on stuff that you can use the 3 finger open grip on until you can start to lightly use 4 finger crimp as part of your later stage rehab. During the second week I climbed, but I buddy taped my ring finger to I decided to run a little experiment today to see what role the individual fingers play in peak force production using the 3 finger drag grip. For reference, my middle finger's finger tip (first pad) is 28. I have previously tested my 3 finger drag This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. Those large ~40mm edges and 3 finger drag are brutal on the skin. I use my index finger to click and ring finger to drag. I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. Personally, when I train my open-handed grip, I always use a 3-finger drag. Also this same gesture allows me to highlight text. He gave me exercises to strengthen my wrist and a hangboard routine that includes my pinky finger. I felt nothing in my finger in term of pain or stress However , when I full-crimp on a spray wall with 8-10mm edge, I feel it hard on my finger. And yes we are scared of falling. I think that's what 3 finger dragging is right? I've noticed having your ring finger at a significantly different angle than your pinky tends to put a ton of stress just below the wrist (maybe a tendon sheath, not entirely sure. My pinky is also very large which makes drag inconvenient. I've been having an issue where if I push my fingers all the way to the back, the thickness of the hangboard edge causes me to naturally want to curl the fingers closer to 90, rather than straight. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks Id really conciously climb with out using half crimp unless it is on really small holds for your warm up at least and I d also incorporate hangboarding open handed and three finger drag 1-2 times a week just for you to get more comfortable in these positions. There are a couple of points I've noticed though: - My pinky is fairly short and I'm pretty much completely unable to extend my DIP joint when full crimping - I feel I have much more freedom I tore/strained my lumbrical a few weeks ago while doing recruitment pulls in the 3 finger drag position and it's about 95% now. I can hold it with 3 fingers open or a 4 finger half crimp but a 4 finger drag doesn't work so well with weight. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. The three-finger drag is a fundamental climbing grip that uses the index, middle, and ring fingers in an open-hand position to distribute force, reduce joint stress, and improve Reddit's rock climbing training community. I've been stuck at around 15 seconds for the last 3 weeks because my fingers would just 16K subscribers in the Climbingvids community. I have huge pain when dragging (basically can put zero weight on it), yet crimping is fine. My fingers are superthin So I have kind of fat fingers and tend to end up only getting my front 3 fingers on a hold and just curl my pinky a lot. Warm up always, use a hangboard, don't fuck up and not do that. This means that on one day I do half crimp and the day after I do 3 finger drag. Exercises: max hangs for multiple grips (e. My hands and fingers do it all the time. There’s a lot of info online about pulleys, and general crimping injuries but struggling to find rehab for my case Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), i. Owing to a lot of sage advice I tend to drag a lot on holds. I'm aiming for +30/40 pounds, but may reintroduce easy 3 finger drag climbing to stay sane before that. I now mostly climb open handed using 4 fingers. I have been climbing 3 years, training and climbing hard for 2 years, I climb around v10 outdoors, and primarily am a boulderer. 214 votes, 79 comments. Hello. However, overall, my half crimp strength I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. g. Article on PIP synovitis was super helpful, found that 3 finger drag and open hand hangboarding have helped tremendously when I seriously started to feel like the irritation would never go away so thank you so so much! In general, I climb 2-3 times a week (typically separated by 2 days of rest) for roughly 2 hours of limit bouldering. I've noticed that with a three finger drag, since the angle of the finger changes, I'm able to get much more of my finger on it and stay under the hold more. Been bouldering only for a year now as well, and both middle fingers had gotten pretty bad synovitis. 5" shorter than my ring finger, I would have to retract my front three fingers I decided to run a little experiment today to see what role the individual fingers play in peak force production using the 3 finger drag grip. So I started hanging on a 3 finger drag for time on an 18mm edge since lockdown began. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I have all gestures set the same in the My 3 finger drag strength (F3 or B3) seems to be adequate, but I've never tested it specifically other than the occasional short repeaters phase where I try and focus on several grips. This doesn't seem to I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a decent level. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. My surgeon (a 5. I've been climbing with various levels of training and commitment for the past four years, but decided to start really hangboarding during this quarantine. Do this every other day and no climbing for the next two weeks. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this more? Is there any detriment to climbing without the pinky and neglecting it while training the 3 finger open hand grip? Thanks all! Welcome to the largest community for Windows 11, Microsoft's latest computer operating system! This is not a tech support subreddit, use r/WindowsHelp or r/TechSupport to get help with your PC Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is somewhat strange because my fingers are definitely stronger in crimp. My plan is do 4 sets of 30 second hangs with about 50-60 pound three finger drag with a lot of rest between, and then also do 10-15 pounds one finger drag for my pinkies since one of the strains is my left pinkie. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. e. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. half-crimp, 3 finger drag), minimum edge hangs Equipment: hangboard, no-hang device, any sort of edge. Also plenty of holds on the moonboard only have enough room for 3 fingers. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. In the past, my contact strength was conditioned upon latching holds with all four fingers. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. Interestingly enough I can do 3 finger drag repeaters on campus rungs and I get no pain. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? I was climbing last week and when doing a pretty hard climb (for me) I ended up in a position supporting most of my bodyweight with a 3 finger drag. What this means is that frequently new climbers hit this wall where they simply cannot move on to harder boulders to improve without having the requisite finger strength. Crepitus could also have something to do with the swelling in your fingers. I've steadily increased my hang time from barely hanging on with BW to about 15 seconds at BW. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 168K subscribers in the climbharder community. Warm-up, don't fuck up Week 9-12 Start adding climbing back in, only using 3 finger drag to start. With all of the possible finger positions, it can be difficult to discern which Hey all, I've just started trying to train the 3 finger drag, and have always heard that 20mm is the best training edge. Been climbing for 3 years and have mostly been athletic all my life. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. Oh, also don't overdo it on crimps, climb slopers too. In some people, the release of these air pockets can be harsh (especially when under large amounts of stress from climbing or hanging) and can cause inflammation in the soft tissues surrounding the area. I don't have a hangboard at work but I like to work on my three finger drag on my breaks. An important note on doing 3 finger hangs without the pinky: don't fully flex/fully curl your pinky while hanging on your other fingers. Because my pinky is about 0. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury 33 votes, 15 comments. The Flexor muscles are tho The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Week 13-forever, climb normal, using 3 finger drag when applicable. The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. The young uns are much more into open hand Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Stupidly I tried this climb again and the same thing happened. My typical (non-injured) routine is max hangs 3 reps, 10"/50", 3' rest, 5 grip positions. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. When assessing where I was at with my max hangs, I was shocked by the difference in strength between my On my way home from climbing gym I've done PIP joint sideways stretching (about 20-30 sec on each side) + finger pulling (about 30 sec two times) + icing the finger with cold gel compress Density hangs on 4 fingers open and 3 fingers drag, 3 sets, 30ish sec each, 3 times a week So I was wondering: - Are my fingers just not strong enough for this exercise? (To give you an idea I can do 5 sets of 4 reps for 7/3 repeaters or can hang 10secs using 3 finger drag, 20 secs half crimp) - Are finger pull-ups maybe not an interesting exercise for You refer to 3 finger drag, which is a true open hand hang (not many people can get 4 fingers on in a drag position). Beyond that I half-crimp everything. This creates a frustrating roadblock for these climbers, where more experienced (read: stronger) climbers will tell them, I recently tested my finger strength on micro edge and was surprised to be able to hold the lattice 6mm edge in full crimp for 3-5 sec. I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. A 3 finger drag for me. Interestingly, I'm discovering that the delay between the lift of the fingers and the end of the dragging for some reason disallows typing during that delay. The first week I did no climbing but I did some half-crimp hangs, which didn't aggravate it, and some light 3 finger drag hangs with my feet on the ground. I also did some light finger rolls. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. Dedicated to increasing all our As the title says, I'm curious if it safe and possible for me to train three finger drag while i'm still recovering from a minor a2 pulley injury on my right middle finger. Could train half crimp and back three drag? that puts your middle/ring in the same-ish position as a f3 drag but keeps the pinky playing. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! So I'll try and add as much base info as possible. 164 votes, 108 comments. At this point I heard a pop in my wrist and it felt like it was pulled apart a bit. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. I don’t believe my volume is too much, partially because other climbers in my gym seem to climb 5-6 days a week at limit and not get injured but also that I am quite reserved on crimps meaning I don’t pull as hard as I could. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Reddit's rock climbing training community. My three finger drag is by far my strongest grip but because of the discomfort I have been reducing my use of the grip to almost zero while climbing. He advised me to buddy-tape my middle finger to my ring finger and to be mindful of any moves that feel to Picture one is a "3 finger drag" kinda, if it was weighted you'd see a more flexion through all three dip joints, and your thumb being engaged would virtually never happen on a vertical ledge since that's mechanically right 3 finger drag: 41 kg to 47 kg left 3 finger drag: 37 kg to 43 kg I do these exercises every day. Oft I am currently using the 14mm bottom edges on the BM2K and that seems to be keeping my half crimp honest. This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. I understand training it will elevate New Member Posts: 20 Open hand (AKA 3-finger drag) Tweakiness Oct 5, 2018 16:16:33 GMT -7 Quote Select PostDeselect PostLink to PostMemberGive GiftBack to In reply to JimR: Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? Or is it just variances in anatomy that don't matter I had wrist issues and visited a PT that was focused on climbers. I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. The fingers I strained are the left pinkie and middle and right ring its not your pulley, its the tendon running from your fingertips to the muscles in the forearm and its a strain! had this 2 times and it takes time to heal and also it is better to move the finger so climbing is fine AS LONG as you climb with very little weight on that finger (tape it away but still use it on jugs and so on, my 1st strain took 1,5 months to dissapear completly, the 2nd about 3 I'm an intermediate climber with long fingers. Start doing longer, lower intensity holds like 30-45 Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. On my new machine, I can't seem to activate this gesture and it's driving me nuts. Works great for both things. Due to the . Given the length of my front 3 compared to my little finger the TFD is much more I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. I had been told by a super experience climber at my gym to do two finger hangs 7 secs on 3 off and now i am almost I struggled with Tenosynovitis on the PIP joint of the middle finger for 2 years, until I was recommended a doctor who was also a great climber. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. So I've been trying to get to the bottom of why I can hang well I'm half crimp (90% BW on one hand, about right for my grade) and yet using 3 finger drag on the same crimp two handed, I can't even hang my bodyweight. Now on my old machine I use a 3-finger drag to move around windows. While climbing, I realized I couldn't climb like that at ALL. nihrivmtxakmkgywwzyotgzdlftpqeaebfbsvtfovycykjmcsj